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There are a handful of cables that transmit both audio and video signals. For years, coaxial video cables were one of the only choices for connecting video components. Coaxial video cables have that famous one-pin connector, sometimes called a stinger, that can either be pushed or screwed into place. Coaxial video cables are now mostly confined to outside connections, such as satellite TV or cable TV lines that come through the wall. A single coaxial cable carries both video and audio signals.
HDMI cables are an updated version of DVI. HDMI cables were also designed for use with HD components, but their connector is much slimmer, like a large USB cable. HDMI also includes HDCP copy protection. Manufacturers of HDMI cables tend to advertise their product as the only choice for connecting HD video components, but that's not true. DVI cables work equally well. However, if you're using an analog TV, all three work equally well [source: Cobalt Cable].
In Europe and the UK, the most popular dual-purpose cable is called SCART (Syndicat des Constructeurs d'Appareils Radiorécepteurs et Téléviseurs). SCART cables have fat, 21-pin connectors. In Europe, SCART cables do the work of RCA analog audio cables as well as composite, s-video and component video cables, but they can't carry high-bandwidth digital video or audio signals, such as those necessary for high-definition TVs. HDMI is the preferred cable in Europe for HD components.
FireWire, or IEEE 1394, cables are mostly associated with connecting devices to computers, but a few high-end home theater receivers and HDTVs now come with FireWire ports. FireWire is capable of carrying compressed MPEG-2 video and digital audio. You might use a FireWire cable to connect a digital video camera directly to your home theater system to show off some unedited footage.
To sum up, here are the cables that you would use for some common home entertainment systems.
Home stereo system (CD changer, stereo receiver, speakers):
Lower-end: If you're playing regular CDs or MP3s, you'll only need RCA analog audio cables and speaker wire.
Higher-end: If you want crisper digital audio, go for optical or digital coaxial cables and thicker speaker wire.
Highest-end: If you want the unparalleled sound of DVD-audio in full surround sound, you'll need special DVD-audio cables and 12-gauge speaker wire.
Alternatively referred to as a cord, connector or plug, a cable is one or more wires covered in plastic that transmit power or data between devices or locations. The picture is an example of what the power cord may look like for your computer or monitor. The power cord is one example of thousands of other cables found in and around computers.
There are two main types of computer cables, a data cable and a power cable. A data cable is a cable that provides communication between devices. For example, the data cable (i.e., DVI, HDMI, or VGA) that connects your monitor to your computer allow it to display a picture on the monitor. Other popular examples of data cables include the CAT5, IDE/EIDE, SATA, and USB cables. A power cable is any cable that powers the device. For example, the power cord that connects to your computer and a Molex style cable inside the computer are both good examples of power cables. Below, is a listing of the most common types of cables found with computers and electronics and examples of devices that use them.
What is a Wiring Harness?The wiring harness has been our core business since 1987. Sumitomo Electric Wiring Systems designs and manufactures the highest quality and most reliable wiring harness products for the automotive industry.
A wiring harness is an organized set of wires, terminals and connectors that run throughout the entire vehicle and relay information and electric power, thereby playing a critical role in “connecting” a variety of components. Power and information travel through this network much like the circulatory and central nervous systems of the human body.
As cars continue to provide advanced functions, their component parts increasingly require electronics to save space and meet other requirements. Experts at efficient design and configuring complex circuits, SEWS creates wiring harnesses that contribute tremendously to the development and advancement of car manufacturers around the world.
Medical Cable Assemblies InformationMedical cable assemblies are designed to connect medical and laboratory instruments and equipment. They transmit power and/or data and usually have an abrasion-resistant jacket that provides relatively low surface friction and mechanical durability. Many are designed with a high degree of flexibility to avoid kinking, and temperature-resistance to withstand autoclave sterilization. Some are disposable.
Like other cable harnesses, medical cable assemblies consist of individual cables that are banded into a single unit with connectors on at least one end. Medical cables typically comply with application-specific safety and regulatory standards, however, such as ISO 10993-1 for the biological evaluation of medical devices. If the outer jacket of a medical cable assembly will come into contact with a patient’s body, buyers should select products where biocompatible materials are used.
Types
There are three major categories of medical cable assemblies: equipment and sub-assembly interfaces, communication interfaces, and patient interfaces.
Equipment and sub-assembly interfaces are installed as original equipment and generally replaced only in case of retrofits or upgrades. Often, this type of cable assembly is used with nuclear imaging devices.
Communications interfaces use fiber optic, modular local area network (LAN), or serial cables. RS-232, RS-422, RS-423, and RS-485 cables are all used in medical applications.
Patient interfaces consist of durable cables that typically require replacement several times during the life of the medical equipment. Sometimes, these assemblies require performance upgrades. Alternatively, they may become damaged by age or repeated use.
Within the category of patient interface cables, there are several sub types.
Long-life patient interfaces include medical cable assemblies for ultrasound imaging and ECG diagnostic testing. These cables are durable, flexible and wear-resistant.
Limited-use interfaces include ICU and CCU monitor cables, as well as ECG diagnostic leads. These medical cables are damaged by repeated mechanical stress and exposure to cleaning chemicals, but are designed to last until scheduled replacement.
Use-only interfaces include catheters, electro-surgical devices, fetal monitoring cables, and neural simulator lead sets. They are sterilized and packaged in kits, and designed to be discarded instead of cleaned after use.
When selecting patient-interface products, buyers should consider the cost of replacement vs. cleaning these medical cable assemblies.
Connectors
The Engineering360 SpecSearch database contains information on several types of medical cable assembly connectors.
BNC connectors are secure bayonet-style locking connectors, commonly used with A/V equipment, professional test equipment, and older peripheral devices.
DIN connectors adhere to standards from Deutsches Institut für Normung, a German national standards body.
Digital visual interface (DVI) connectors cover the transmission of video between a source and a display. DVI connectors may transmit analog (DVI-A), digital (DVI-D), or analog/digital (DVI-I) data.
RJ-45 connectors are commonly used to transmit serial data.
Shielding
Cable assemblies may feature a type of electromagnetic shielding material, which is wrapped around the cable assembly underneath the outer jacket. Shielding serves to prevent electrical noise from affecting the transmitted signal, and to reduce electromagnetic radiation emission from the cable itself. Shielding is typically comprised of metal braiding, metal tape or foil braiding. A shielded cable assembly may also feature a special grounding wire known as a drain wire.
How Long Does It Take To Change A Engine Wiring Harness?A technician may need to disassemble parts of the vehicle if they are attempting to access the wiring harness in question as it is difficult to reach. According to this example, installing a wiring harness can take no less than an hour or no more than 20 hours (i.e. if complications arise).
I often receive inquiries concerning InterConnect Wiring, like, “Can InterConnect fix or overhaul my wires?”. ” The short answer to that question is, “Yes! “. A new electrical wiring harness may be less costly than the one you’d need to replace an old one or replace it altogether.How Do You Replace An Engine Wiring Harness?
Check the old and new connectors are the same.
Strip the ends of the wires, then pull out the wire clips to replace the wiring harness.
The wire ends should be twisted a little…
Insulated connections should be coiled to wire harnesses.
The Insulated Connector needs to be melted while the Wiring needs to be replaced.
Using an electrical tape, you can tape the wire to it.
In order to better understand the function and form of the intake manifold gasket, let’s first examine the job of the intake manifold. Found on any vehicle with an internal combustion engine, the intake manifold sits on top of the engine and plays a key role in the combustion process.
Designed to run on three timed components, air mixed fuel, spark, and combustion; the internal combustion engine relies upon the intake manifold to help it breathe. Featuring a series of tubes, the intake manifold ensures that the air coming into the engine is evenly distributed to all the cylinders. This air is used during the first stroke of the combustion process.
The intake manifold also helps cool down the cylinders to prevent the engine from overheating. Coolant runs through the manifold to the cylinder heads where the coolant absorbs the heat and reduces engine temperature.
This brings us to the intake manifold gasket. Typically made from aluminized steel coated in a carbon-based rubber compound, the intake manifold gasket seals the intake manifold to the engine. High-quality intake manifold gaskets, such as Fel-Pro®, are constructed as one-piece with reinforced edges and linings around each port or runner opening. They must be resistant to decay caused by oils and coolants. The performance of your engine depends upon the quality of the intake manifold gasket.
If you notice any of the following symptoms, it could be a sign that your intake manifold gasket is wearing out. Consult your professional mechanic for a definitive diagnosis and repair.
Coolant leaking from vehicle
Engine overheating
Green, red or yellow leaks under the car
Check engine light comes on
Engine starts to run rough
Learn more about Fel-Pro quality gaskets that are designed specifically for the repair environment, find your car part, or find where to buy your auto part today.
How To Care For Your Car: Intake And Exhaust ValvesEngine valves are small, but they play a huge role in keeping your car running smoothly. If there is an issue with the valves, such as bent or burnt valves, it must be addressed immediately to prevent engine damage.
What are the symptoms of a bad exhaust valve or bad intake valve? How much will it cost to repair bent or burnt valves? Keep reading to learn the answers to these questions and more.
What are intake and exhaust valves?
Intake and exhaust valves are the final component in the valve train system. They are made of hardened metal that must withstand the extreme conditions of the combustion chamber.
Intake and exhaust valves are responsible for controlling the flow of gases through the combustion chamber. Intake valves let air in, whereas exhaust valves let air out.
They are shaped to have a slim stem leading to a flatter face, with the intake valves often being larger than the exhaust. Each valve is designed to only move up and down, not side to side.
When a valve is closed, it sits tightly on the valve seat to stop the flow of air. But when it is open, it separates from the valve seat to allow air to flow through.
In many modern engines, each cylinder has two intake and two exhaust valves per cylinder.
How to Tell Your Car Has a Bad Intake Manifold GasketThe intake manifold gasket in your car’s engine keeps the various fluids from mixing and leaking. Learn here how to tell if your car has a bad gasket.
A car's engine creates power through the combustion of air and fuel. In most modern, fuel-injected systems, the air and fuel mix together inside of the component known as the intake manifold. One end of the manifold consists of a single tube through which fresh air flows. The other end consists of multiple smaller tubes, each of which connect to one of your engine's cylinders.
Between the intake manifold and the engine block sits the intake manifold gasket. The intake manifold gasket seals off the small gap between the manifold and the engine, preventing air, coolant, and oil from leaking. Over time, the intake manifold gasket endures a lot of wear and tear. Eventually it may crack or warp in ways that allow leaks to occur.
Unfortunately, many car owners fail to recognize the symptoms that they may be dealing with a bad intake manifold gasket. If you would like to improve your skills at diagnosing this common engine problem, keep reading. This article explains three common symptoms that you may have a bad intake manifold gasket.
1. Misfiring Engine
Engine misfires involve one or more cylinders that fail to produce combustion in a given engine cycle. In other words, although air and gasoline flow into the cylinder, the mixture fails to catch on fire. Instead, the uncombusted mix passes out of your engine through the exhaust system. As a result, misfires lead to poor fuel economy and other problems.
Misfires may stem from a large number of problems, including poor ignition timing, excessively worn valves, and corroded spark plugs. Yet damaged intake manifold gasket tend to be one of the most frequently experienced causes of engine misfires. A damaged gasket often fails to create an airtight seal between the manifold and the engine.
This seal failure allows air that should be entering the engine to escape instead. Such a leak alters the engine's air–fuel ratio — one of the most important factors in promoting complete combustion. A bad enough leak may allow enough air to escape that combustion cannot occur at all.
2. Difficulty Accelerating
A leaky intake manifold gasket often makes it more difficult for your car to accelerate, even if the problem has not reached the point where it causes misfires to occur. Such power loss stems from the air leaking out of the intake manifold. Not only does this decrease the amount of air that makes it to your engine, but it also creates a vacuum leak for your entire air intake system.
A vacuum leak reduces engine air pressure, no matter how wide your throttle body opens. Thus, depressing the gas pedal often fails to generate the expected acceleration. Instead, your car seems to poke along at a fixed, sluggish rate.
If you think about it, there are things about your car that just don’t make sense. You’ve been told that more air is a good thing for power, that a cold air intake, more scoops, more vents, etc, are a great way to get more performance. Those are technically all true, but let’s walk that line of thinking back a bit by talking about a leaking or damaged intake manifold.
Can there be too much? The answer is that though more air is generally good, it’s important to know that unregulated air flowing into the engine can become a massive problem. Extra air coming into the engine that your car’s computer doesn’t know what to do with or where it came from leads to big issues for its air-fuel ratios which, you know, create the oomph that drives your ride.
So, a leaking intake manifold is bad. Damage to the component can mess with the coolant system and could cause stalling or worse. What is the intake manifold? Why is it important? Let The Drive’s blowhard editors drop some knowledge on you.
What are the Symptoms of Intake Manifold Failure?Symptoms of intake manifold failure can be difficult to identify as such, so it’s important that you are familiar with problems that might seem relatively minor, but which could be an indication of significant intake manifold issues.
Difference in air-to-fuel ratio resulting in backfires and rough idlingF
Milky-looking engine oil
Coolant leaking onto the ground under the vehicle while it is stationary
Regular or quick engine overheating
How Much Will Intake Manifold Repair Cost at a Garage?
Although the cost of replacing an intake manifold will vary depending on the make and model of the car, many estimates have the cost of the part at around $300, with much of the cost of the job coming from labour and time spent on it. This can be a significantly higher sum – as much as $900 – and in some cars it may not be worth going ahead with the job.
Can K-Seal Fix My Intake Manifold?
If there is a coolant leak then, in most cases, using K-Seal, K-Seal HD and K-Seal Ultimate will help to quickly and permanently stop the leak, saving you a lot of time and money. Use our simple stockist search facility to find a bottle and get back on the road.
What is an Intake Manifold?
An intake manifold directs the mixture of air and fuel to the right cylinder to be combusted so it can power the engine. Additionally, it conducts coolant through to the cylinders in order to reduce the temperature of the engine. The intake manifold is attached to the top of the engine by the intake manifold gasket, which has to be monitored as it is susceptible to cracking under the heat and pressure and allowing coolant or oil to escape.
It’s all about how you build the tool to build the part.’ ~ Alan Lipman, CEO Romar
Precision molding is the process of molding either silicone or plastic in a particular way, with a very high degree of accuracy and tolerance, to ensure repeatability in long machine runs.
As specialists in precision molding, we are able to mould these materials to achieve the required result, using the most cost effective methods.
With over 50 years experience in building precision moulds, we have the technical, engineering and creative expertise required to meet every precise standard. Romar is acknowledged and applauded worldwide for producing injection molded components of the very highest quality and precision.
Our experience in molding has seen products ranging from precision miniature components with micron dimensions to large components weighing in excess of 16kg.
If you're ready to collaborate with a team that understands the precise requirements of precision moulding and micromoulding, let Romar provide you with an innovative, end-to-end design and manufacturing solution. Contact Romar today.
What is metal casting?Metal casting is the process of making objects by pouring molten metal into an empty shaped space. The metal then cools and hardens into the form given to it by this shaped mold. Casting is often a less expensive way to manufacture a piece compared with machining the part out of a piece of solid metal. There are many metal casting methods to choose from. What type of casting is most efficient depends on the metals used, the size of the run, and the complexity of the casting.
Before starting a production run, it is helpful to know some of the terms and methods from the foundry floor.
Casting terminology
Casting mold
A mold is a cavity in a material that receives liquid metal and produces a cooled object in the shape of that cavity. Molds can be simple. The forms used to create ingots of metal are like loaf pans, with the metal simply poured inside and left to cool. Most molds are for more complex shapes and are based on a pattern. The pattern imprinted into a split mold. Half of the pattern is imprinted on one side of the mold and half on the other, and then the halves are clamped together before the mold is filled. By making the mold in two parts, the pattern can be withdrawn before filling. These molds can be made with a horizontal split
Cope and drag
In horizontal molding, the top half of the mold is called the cope, and the bottom half is called the drag.
Swing and ram
In vertical molding, the leading half of the mold is called the swing, and the back half is called the ram.
Molding cores
If a mold is supposed to have internal spaces or holes, a core is often made. These cores are shaped like the internal space. The cores are usually held in place by extending past the casting and being held in place through core prints, which suspends the core like a bridge between two banks. The empty spaces around the core will fill with metal, and the core will be removed from the final casting, leaving a hole where it once was. If the core is very long, it might be supported by chaplets to prop it up. These are usually made of the same metal as the final casting as they sit in the space that will flood with material and become part of the final casting.
Dimensional tolerance
One of the important factors in choosing a casting method is dimensional tolerance. Dimensional tolerance is the variation acceptable in the size of the final product. Metal shrinks when cooling, and the type of casting influences by how much. If a product needs to be precise, a client may want a casting method that produces near net casting. This means that the product is very close to being the right size when it is shaken out of the mold.
Surface finishing
Another consideration is surface finishing. How granular, bumpy, or rough can the surface of the casting be? What is acceptable for a cast iron pan is not acceptable for a wedding ring. Very smooth metal surfaces are usually created with machining, which is an extra cost: if shiny and smooth is a desired outcome, choosing a casting method with a finer finish may reduce machining costs.
What is injection moulding? – definition, types and materialsInjection moulding is a manufacturing process that allows for parts to be produced in large volumes. It works by injecting molten materials into a mould (or ‘mold’ in the United States). It is typically used as a mass production process to manufacture thousands of identical items. Injection moulding materials include metals, glasses, elastomers and confections, although it is most commonly used with thermoplastic and thermosetting polymers.How does it Work?The first stage of injection moulding is to create the mould itself. Most moulds are made from metal, usually aluminium or steel, and precision machined to match the features of the product they are to produce.
Once the mould has been created by the mould-maker, the material for the part is fed into a heated barrel and mixed using a helical shaped screw. Heating bands melt the material in the barrel and the molten metal or molten plastic material is then fed into the mould cavity where it cools and hardens, matching the shape of the mould. The cooling time can be reduced through the use of cooling lines that circulate water or oil from an external temperature controller. Mould tools are mounted on plate moulds (or ‘platens’), which open once the material has solidified so that ejector pins can eject the part from the mould.
Separate materials can be combined in one part in a type of injection moulding called a two-shot mould. This technique can be used to add a soft touch to plastic products, add colours to a part or produce items with different performance characteristics.
Moulds can be made of single or multiple cavities. Multiple cavity moulds can have identical parts in each cavity or can be unique to create parts of different geometries. Aluminium moulds are not best suited to high volume production or parts with narrow dimensional tolerances since they have inferior mechanical properties and can be prone to wear, deformation and damage due to the injection and clamping forces. While steel moulds are more durable they are also more expensive than aluminium moulds.
The injection moulding process requires careful design, including the shape and features of the part, the materials for the part and the mould and the properties of the moulding machine. As a result, there are various considerations that need to be taken into account when injection moulding.
When is Injection Moulding Used?Injection moulding is used to make a range of widely used products, including common plastic items like bottle tops as well as remote control casings, syringes and more. It is also commonly used for manufacturing larger items such as car body panels.
Injection moulding is mainly used where there is a need to manufacture many thousands or millions of identical parts from a mould.
The main advantage of injection moulding is being able to scale up production to produce a large number of parts. Once the initial costs of the design and the moulds have been covered, the price of manufacturing is very low. The cost of production drops as more parts are produced.
Injection moulding also produces minimal wastage when compared to traditional manufacturing processes like CNC machining, which cuts away excess materials. Despite this, injection moulding does produce some waste, mainly from the sprue, the runners, the gate locations, and any overflow material that leaks out of the part cavity (also called ‘flash’).
The final advantage of injection moulding is that it allows for the production of many identical parts, which allows for part reliability and consistency in high volume production.
While injection moulding has its advantages, there are also a number of disadvantages with the process.
Up-front costs can be high for injection moulding, particularly with regard to tooling. Before you can produce any parts, a prototype part needs to be created. Once this has been completed, a prototype mould tool needs to be created and tested. This all takes time and money to complete and can be a costly process.
Injection moulding is also not ideal for producing large parts as a single piece. This is because of the size limitations of injection mould machines and the mould tools. Items that are too large for an injection moulding machine’s capability need to be created as multiple parts and joined together later.
The final disadvantage is that large undercuts require experienced design to avoid and can add even more expense to your project.
If replacing your main kitchen sink, you'll want to go a bit larger. The most common sizes for a kitchen sink are 30" or 33", however a standard size could measure anywhere between 24" and 36" in length. The bulk of what you find while shopping will fall within this size range. Generally, sinks up to 30" will contain one large single bowl. These sinks are fantastic for washing larger pots and pans, so they're ideal for bigger families that do a lot of stovetop cooking. If a double-bowl sink is desired, although they do exist, you may have some trouble finding one under 30" in length. Sinks that measure more than 30" in length will usually contain two or more bowls, however, you may still find some single-bowl sinks in these larger sizes. If you like to keep a food prep area separated from your dirty dish bowl, then a double or triple bowl sink may be what you need.
Kitchen sinks that are larger than 36" in length are considered oversized sinks. These fit very well into large kitchens, where a small or standard size kitchen sink may get lost in the design. Oversized sinks are also often found in professional kitchens or industrial settings, where large basins can really be taken advantage of.
Aside from the length of the sink, you should pay close attention to the depth of the basins as well as the width from front to back. Someone who prefers to hand wash their dishes may appreciate a deeper sink for soaking, or a wider sink which provides a bit more room to work.
You may now have an idea of the size you want your new kitchen sink to be, but before you make a decision, you'll need to know what will fit. If you're replacing an existing sink, measure the length and width of the opening where your current sink rests. To do this, you'll likely need to remove the sink. Also measure the depth of the bowls, as a significantly deeper bowl than what you currently have may require alterations to the in-wall plumbing. You'll need to know what will fit, and whether modifications will need to be made to your countertop, cabinet, or plumbing.If you're planning to jump from a shallow sink to something with a deeper basin, take some measurements from the existing plumbing. If the basin hangs too low, the sink will not drain properly and modifications may need to be made behind the wall, e.g. lowering the pipe that feeds into the wall. To know how much deeper you can go without modification, measure the length of the pipe that connects the sink drain to the tee below the sink. This pipe is referred to as the tailpiece. If the tailpiece is 2" in length, then you should be able to install a new sink that is 2" deeper than what you currently have with no issues.
A Guide to Stainless Steel Kitchen Sinks for HomeownersThe kitchen sink plays a vital role in the modern-day kitchen; it’s so important that you’d struggle to live in a kitchen without a proper sink.
From cleaning large pots to preparing food, you need to make sure that your kitchen sink is great and absolutely perfect for your kitchen. Stainless steel kitchen sinks are popular due to their flexibility which makes it a good choice for:
Homeowners in their kitchens
Kitchens in restaurants or cafes
as well as whole other list of uses for a stainless steel sink.
In this post, we’ll cover the things that you need to know before purchasing a stainless steel kitchen sink.
Stainless steel kitchen sinks are a good choice for just about any kitchen thanks to its array of good qualities. You’d be hard-pressed to find a kitchen sink as timeless as stainless steel ones which also has the ability to complement kitchen designs nicely.
Stainless steel sinks are also famous for being strong and durable. With proper maintenance, stainless steel kitchens are expected to last for more than 30 years – a nod to its longevity and satisfactory performance.
Before you buy a stainless steel kitchen sink, you’ll need to consider some aspects to make your purchase worthwhile.
This includes:
The grades of stainless steel
It’s thickness (also referred to as its gauge)
Insulation and coatings for the sink
Its finish
Some other considerations include the number of sinks that you want as well as how you would like it to be mounted, although those factors are less important than the factors listed above.
It would also be helpful to understand how to maintain and take care of stainless sinks properly. Proper maintenance is essential to ensuring that your sink’s long-lastingness.
Stainless steel is usually steel that has been mixed with other elements to improve its properties. Think of stainless steel as a material that is mixed with the best of other materials to make a perfect final product.
The two most important materials to check before purchasing a sink is chromium and nickel. These two materials enhance the properties of stainless steel which make it durable and resistant to corrosion.
Choosing an Overmount or Undermount SinkThere are many aspects of a kitchen sink to consider, such as size, depth, dividers, and materials. Deciding whether you are looking for an over or undermount sink is best decided first, as it will simplify your decisions down the road. Your countertop material will be a key factor in this decision.
While undermount sinks are currently preferred for looks, overmount can be a better investment in longevity for certain countertop materials like wood. Undermount sinks, currently loved for their smooth look and how they complement stone and solid surface countertops, also get an extra inch or so of depth out of their lower mounting point.
UNDERMOUNT SINKS
Undermount sinks have that name because they sit under the counter, so that the the edge of the sink is below the level of the countertop. There are three types of undermount sink installation.
Positive reveal- counter stops before the edge of the sink creating a ledge
Negative reveal- counter overhangs the sink a little
Flush- counter and sink edges are aligned
Undermount sinks have their advantages and drawbacks. Examine the pros and cons to decide if one is right for your kitchen.
Pros:
~ Creates attractive, clean lines in your kitchen
~ Gives you slightly more counter space
~ Easy to wipe food and liquid messes directly into the sink
~ Undermount sinks can be deeper for cleaning large pots and pans
Cons:
~ Usually more expensive
~ Professional installation recommended
~ Risk of chipping the counter edge when moving heavy dishes
~ Water can get into gap between the sink and the counter, if not perfectly sealed. Top craftsmanship is advised.
~ Best used with waterproof, non-porous countertops like granite and other types of stone, or a water-resistant composite.
Undermount sinks are not appropriate for counters that are not water-tight, such as wood. Solid surface countertops are recommended for undermount sinks, since some countertop materials may not be strong enough to support the weight of the undermount sink. Talk to your contractor to be sure that the materials and sealing techniques that they use are suitable for an undermount sink.
The Great Debate: Top-mount or Undermount Sinks?Decisions when undergoing a kitchen renovation or producing your own kitchen – each time you make one you are faced with two more, as if you’re Hercules cutting off the many heads of the menacing Hydra. Unfortunately, we’re not here to provide you an encyclopedia that will inform your conclusions for each and every decision that you will have to make in this overbearing task, but this latest blog instalment by QN Designs will bring you the insight to hopefully make one of those decisions just that little bit easier. Here’s all that you need to know about making the choice between style and convenience, between trend and budget: the choice between having an undermount or a top-mount sink.
Typically, when you buy a sink you will find that you have the inset bowl as well as a lip lining the edge or outline. For top-mount sinks, if you drop them into a cutout hole within a benchtop, the lip will save the sink from falling straight through and clanging onto the ground. Hence, top-mount sinks are also commonly referred to as drop-in sinks. You may also hear them being called overmount sinks and rimmed sinks for the similar reasons.
While a top-mount sink sits jovially above the benchtop, an undermount sink is holding on for dear life underneath the countertop. Due to these circumstances, an undermount sink must be specially installed through methods including sandwiching the sink lip between the underside of the benchtop and a support board, bonding the sink to the benchtop using a glue-like epoxy or merely bolting the sink underneath the counter. It altogether allows for a comparatively more streamlined look on the surface where there is no visible lip but instead sports a smooth benchtop surface across the whole space. If you want to stay up to date in terms of kitchen fashion and trends, then undermount sinks are generally considered to be more marketable and in style than your traditional drop-in sinks whom have been around for eras.
When considering the price of these two sinks, you must be sure to take into account both the cost of supply and the cost of installation. For the aspect of supply, an undermount sink is going to be more expensive than an overmount sink of the same shape and material.
In terms of installation, undermount sinks are also pricier in comparison and this is quite evident when we consider all the work needed to keep these bodies from losing its stick and falling to the floor while smashing all the plates within. It includes the price of extra materials needed for the job as well as the price of external labor if you are having a third party do the work. In addition, undermount sinks are strongly recommended to be partnered with a sturdy benchtop such as engineered stone, meaning that there is also polishing to be done on the inside edges of the cut out to smooth out any coarse surfaces.
Is a Double-Bowl Sink Worth the Space?If you have an older home, it probably came with a double-bowl kitchen sink. This trend made its rounds at a time when dishwashers were not yet standard in the average American home. The primary purpose of double-bowl sinks was to make dishwashing easier: one bowl for soapy water, the other bowl with clean water for rinsing.
Nowadays, the double-bowl sink is rarely used for dishwashing. However, this type of kitchen sink does more than make dishwashing easier. Some of the benefits of a double-bowl sink are:
It’s ideal for washing large pans and other items that you don’t want to run through the dishwasher.
It helps keep things organized. For instance, you can put dirty dishes in one bowl while you use the other for food preparation.
It makes garbage disposal easier too. You can use the garbage disposal on one side even if the other bowl is full of water or dirty dishes.
Today, single-bowl sinks are dominating the home kitchen designs arena. Single-bowl sinks have one deep basin without any divider. They offer a number of benefits, including:
They provide more space for washing bigger kitchen items.
They do not take as much counter space as double-bowl sinks.
They are ideal for smaller kitchens.
When it comes to choosing flooring materials, you have a lot of different options. There are dozens of types of stone, tile, and wood you can use, along with cheaper alternatives that can mimic those materials without breaking the bank. Two of the most popular alternative materials are luxury vinyl plank flooring, and stone polymer composite flooring: LVP and SPC. What’s the difference between them? And which is the best option for your home? Here’s a brief overview of these two flooring products.
What Are LVP and SPC?
Luxury vinyl planks are made of compressed layers of vinyl, with a high resolution image overlaid onto them, to mimic the look of another material. Planks are generally used to mimic hardwood, because the shape is similar to real wood planks. The high res image allows vinyl to look like virtually any other material, though, such as stone, tile, and more. LVP has several layers, but the main one is its vinyl core, which makes the planks durable but flexible.
Stone polymer composite flooring is similar, in that it includes a high resolution image, overlaid onto vinyl and coated with a transparent wear layer to protect the floor from scratches, stains, fading, etc. However, the core material in SPC is a hybrid of plastic and compressed limestone powder. This makes the planks hard and rigid, rather than soft and flexible.
The two materials are similar in many ways. They’re both waterproof, scratchproof, and generally fairly durable. They’re easy to install yourself, without the use of glues and solvents, and easy to maintain, with regular sweeping to get rid of dust, and a quick mop to get rid of spills. And they’re both significantly cheaper than the materials they’re acting as a substitute for.
The Differences
So, besides flexibility, what differences are there between the characteristics of LVP and SPC flooring? The rigid structure of SPC gives it a few advantages. While both can be installed over virtually any solid subfloor, LVP needs its subfloor to be completely level, and free of any dents, obstructions, etc. The flexible material will take on the shape of any imperfections, whereas SPC will keep its own shape, regardless of the floor below it.
By the same token, SPC is also more durable, resistant to dents and other damage. It will last longer, hold up better to wear. The rigidity of SPC also allows it to provide more support underfoot, while LVP’s pliability gives it a softer, more comfortable feel for walking on. SPC is also slightly thicker than LVP, and its look and texture tend to be a bit more realistic.
SPC has many advantages over LVP, but it does have one drawback. Its rigid, composite construction makes it more expensive than vinyl. While both are still cost-effective compared to wood, stone, or tile, if you’re on a tight budget, LVP is likely a better bet.
This is just a brief overview of the two flooring materials. There are plenty of other pros and cons of each, depending on your specific situation. So which flooring material is best for you? Talk to a flooring expert who can help you weigh the pros and cons of stone polymer composites vs. luxury vinyl planks, and decide which one best meets your home’s needs and can serve you in good stead for years to come.
The Advantages and Disadvantages of SPC FlooringSPC flooring is becoming more and more popular thanks to all its remarkably desirable traits and features. However, how much do you really know about SPC flooring? Nothing is perfect in this world, it is no surprise that SPC flooring also carries some downsides with it.
It is only fair enough if you are made known of the pros and cons of SPC flooring before you join the SPC fanatic troop.
Here are the lists of SPC flooring pros and cons.
Rigid core luxury vinyl flooring, also known as SPC flooring, is the most durable waterproof vinyl flooring option on the market. It has a similar construction to WPC, but it comes with an ultra-tough core, which is where the name “rigid core” comes from.
So what does SPC stand for? As it turns out, it stands for a couple of terms that are used interchangeably: stone plastic composite or stone polymer composite. It refers to the make-up of the core. The SPC core is what makes this flooring so incredibly durable, maintaining its form even over uneven subfloors.
That means you can install SPC rigid core luxury vinyl flooring on any level, over almost any existing (hard surface) subfloor and for any amount of traffic.
WPC Flooring, SPC Flooring and LVT Flooring: What Differences, Similarities and Benefits?If you own a modern home or have plans to own one in the future, you must have heard of vinyl floorings. These affordable and stylish flooring options are increasingly becoming the choice of many homeowners and commercial property owners who want to give their living and working spaces a fresh look.
There are three main types of vinyl flooring - WPC flooring, LVT flooring and SPC flooring. In terms of market entry, traditional versions of Luxury Vinyl Tile flooring have been in the market for many years. With time, changes in buyer preferences led to the development of advanced flooring solutions that saw rigid core vinyl such as WPC and SPC flooring hit the market.
Even so, each flooring type comes with its own set of benefits and drawbacks that you need to consider before settling for one. Though different, the three flooring types share several similarities.
In this article, we explore the benefits, differences and similarities that SPC Vinyl flooring, LVT and WPC floorings have.
Before we delve into this, let's first define each of these vinyl flooring:
LVT Flooring
Luxury Vinyl Tile is an updated and innovative version of vinyl flooring that is today a top contender when it comes to floor installations in commercial and living spaces. Designed with a real wood, stone or ceramic look, LVT flooring is not just affordable, it is also durable, waterproof and resistant to scratches.
SPC Flooring
Stone Plastic Composite (SPC flooring), also referred to as Rigid Vinyl Plank, is an upgrade of LVT. SPC vinyl flooring comes with multiple layers and backing options that make it ideal for homes. Some key aspects that make it stand out include low noise levels, no warping, eco-friendliness and insulation against sound and heat.
WPC Flooring
Wood Plastic Composite (WPC) derives its name from the wood-like material used to make it. These materials include a foaming agent known as polyvinyl chloride, plasticisers, wood flour and calcium carbonate.
What does Embossed Vinyl Flooring MeanAs you explore the many flooring options available for your home, you may be focused on finding a beautiful material that enhances the décor. Real hardwood flooring is a popular option because of its undeniable charm and wide range of available styles. Many people love the texture of the grain of the wood as well as its richness and sheen. From the sophisticate of deep cherry wood with a smooth sheen to the deep striations and character of oak floors with a textured finish, there is a wood flooring style that is seemingly perfect for most homes. However, wood flooring as its drawbacks. For example, it may easily be scratched, and it should not be exposed to moisture. In addition, it may be one of the more expensive flooring options available. If you are looking for a great alternative to real hardwood flooring without the drawbacks, embossed vinyl flooring or laminate flooring mimics the grain of the wood and may be a more suitable option for your home.Before you learn about embossed vinyl and laminate flooring, it makes sense to understand how vinyl floors and laminate planks are different than hardwood flooring. These are both synthetic flooring materials that are known for their affordability and durability. Vinyl is usually comprised of a PVC material, and it can be texturized and dyed to mimic the look of many other types of floors. Regardless of whether you choose embossed vinyl planks or tiles, floating vinyl or glue installation methods are available.
Laminate flooring, on the other hand, is comprised of multiple layers of a wood material compressed tightly together. This material is usually fiber board or a type of melamine resin. It is covered with a printed layer that can mimic the look of wood flooring. Laminate also has a wear layer, which could have a textured finish or a smooth finish. It is most commonly available in laminate planks, but you can find tiles as well. The same installation methods that are available for vinyl flooring are available for laminate flooring.
How to Estimate T-Bar CeilingsT-bar ceilings, also known as acoustical ceilings, usually are installed to hide overhead ducts and pipes in basements. In other cases, t-bar ceilings in kitchens have flush overhead lighting and water-resistant ceiling tiles. T-bar ceilings consist of a metal grid and ceiling tiles. Taking a few measurements and deciding on the size of the tiles allows you to estimate the cost of materials and installation.Determine the square footage of the T-bar ceiling. To do this, measure the length and width of the room and multiply one by the other. In other words, if the room is 20 feet long and 14 feet wide, the square footage is 280 feet. If a measurement isn't exact to a foot, round it up to the next foot.
Determine the square footage of ceiling tiles based on the square footage of the ceiling. Acoustic ceiling tiles are sold by the square foot in packages that contain eight tiles. The number of packages is not particularly relevant, as long as the square footage is determined.
Determine the size of the tiles, such as 24-inch square or 24-by-48-inches. If the larger tiles are a preference, determine the direction they will install, such as perpendicular to the long walls or running in the same direction. With this determined, proceed with estimating the grid.
Electromagnetic interference (EMI) is prevalent throughout the factory floor. This is why data and signal cables are usually protected with insulated conductors and wrapped with a conductive layer. Shielding reduces electrical noise and reduces its impact on signals and also lowers electromagnetic radiation. Shielding prevents crosstalk between cables near each other. Shielding not only protects cable but it can also protect machinery and people as well.
Power cables are constructed to be electromagnetic compatible (EMC) to minimize noise generation, which affects many other systems like radio and data communication.
Communication cables are shielded to prevent the effects on the data transmitted from EMI. To further prevent cross talk and coupling, communication cables are also paired and individually shielded.
In some applications, such as those needing servo cables, double or even triple shielding is required: around individual conductors, around twisted pairs, and around the entire cable.
Some applications do not require shielded cables. For example, if a cable will be used in a cabinet or otherwise away from other sources of noise, it does not need to be shielded, as it will be protected from noise and EMI already.
Cable shielding uses either a braided, spiral design or metal-coated Mylar or foil shield. The shielding wraps around each conductor to mitigate noise by 85% to 100%, depending on the configuration. The maximum shielding a braided shield can have is 90%. Spiral shields can offer 98%, while metal-coated Mylar can deflect 100% of EMI.
Using a thin layer of Mylar or aluminum foil eliminates the gaps you may encounter with braided designs. The foil is attached to a polyester backing to provide 100% coverage. However, because it is thin, it can make applying connectors a challenge. Foil shielding can also be damaged in high-flex applications, so spiral or braided designs work best there.
Just as described, braided shielding is made of a mesh of bare or tinned copper wires woven together. It is easy to terminate when crimping or soldering a connector. Because of the braiding, small gaps of coverage do occur, thus resulting in the only 90% shield rating. If the cable is not moving or flexing, this coverage should be sufficient. However, the braided design does add cost and weight to the final design.
If an environment is extremely noisy, a cable may use multiple layers of shielding with both the braided and foil designs. Sometimes pairs of wires are shielded individually in addition to the entire cable being shielded. This is done to prevent crosstalk between pairs.
Unlikely competitor for diamond as best thermal conductor: Boron arsenide potential for cooling applicationsThe discovery that the chemical compound of boron and arsenic could rival diamond, the best-known thermal conductor, surprised the team of theoretical physicists from Boston College and the Naval Research Laboratory. But a new theoretical approach allowed the team to unlock the secret to boron arsenide's potentially extraordinary ability to conduct heat.
Smaller, faster and more powerful microelectronic devices pose the daunting challenge of removing the heat they generate. Good thermal conductors placed in contact with such devices channel heat rapidly away from unwanted "hot spots" that decrease the efficiency of these devices and can cause them to fail.
Diamond is the most highly prized of gemstones. But, beyond its brilliance and beauty in jewelry, it has many other remarkable properties. Along with its carbon cousins graphite and graphene, diamond is the best thermal conductor around room temperature, having thermal conductivity of more than 2,000 watts per meter per Kelvin, which is five times higher than the best metals such as copper. Currently, diamond is widely used to help remove heat from computer chips and other electronic devices. Unfortunately, diamond is rare and expensive, and high quality synthetic diamond is difficult and costly to produce. This has spurred a search for new materials with ultra-high thermal conductivities, but little progress has been made in recent years.
The high thermal conductivity of diamond is well understood, resulting from the lightness of the constituent carbon atoms and the stiff chemical bonds between them, according to co-author David Broido, a professor of physics at Boston College. On the other hand, boron arsenide was not expected to be a particularly good thermal conductor and in fact had been estimated -- using conventional evaluation criteria -- to have a thermal conductivity 10 times smaller than diamond.
The team found the calculated thermal conductivity of cubic boron arsenide is remarkably high, more than 2000 Watts per meter per Kelvin at room temperature and exceeding that of diamond at higher temperatures, according to Broido and co-authors Tom Reinecke, senior scientist at the Naval Research Laboratory, and Lucas Lindsay, a post-doctoral researcher at NRL who earned his doctorate at BC.
Broido said the team used a recently developed theoretical approach for calculating thermal conductivities, which they had previously tested with many other well-studied materials. Confident in their theoretical approach, the team took a closer look at boron arsenide, whose thermal conductivity has never been measured.
Unlike metals, where electrons carry heat, diamond and boron arsenide are electrical insulators. For them, heat is carried by vibrational waves of the constituent atoms, and the collision of these waves with each other creates an intrinsic resistance to heat flow. The team was surprised to find an unusual interplay of certain vibrational properties in boron arsenide that lie outside of the guidelines commonly used to estimate the thermal conductivity of electrical insulators. It turns out the expected collisions between vibrational waves are far less likely to occur in a certain range of frequencies. Thus, at these frequencies, large amounts heat can be conducted in boron arsenide.
How Does Sound Absorbing Material Work?Sounds are occurring all around us, at every moment of the day, and some of them are held more clearly than others.
If you've been trying to soundproof your home and block certain noises, you've likely looked into the marvel of sound absorbing materials and how they can help.
How does sound absorbing material work?
A material with sound absorbing properties is able to take the energy created from sound and turns it into another type of energy. These dense but soft materials help to absorb the sound or vibrations as the waves hit it, and it deforms this energy which reduces its effect.
To give you a better understanding of what sound absorbing materials do, we've created a simple guide that answers all of the questions you need to know. With a simple explanation of the science behind sound and absorption, you’ll be better equipped to choose a soundproofing material that works.
Without sound, there would be no need for sound absorption methods, so it's a good idea to understand the science behind how it’s made and where it goes.
A sound wave is created by a vibration that is sent through the air at varying lengths, like when someone yells, and these can be categorized as either high or low-frequency sounds depending on their length.
A high-frequency sound wave can be reflected by thin materials, whereas low-frequency sound waves pass through them. Any soundwave that’s allowed to continue traveling will make noise unless there are materials or objects in the way.
When none of this sound is absorbed, it creates noise, and if your goal is to prevent this noise from occurring, you need the right materials and setup to absorb them completely.
Electrically Conductive AdhesivesElectrically conductive adhesive products are primarily used for electronics applications where components need to be held in place and electrical current can be passed between them.
Depending on gap between components, most general adhesives (such as anaerobics, cyanoacrylates, epoxies, and acrylic-based adhesives) act as an electrical insulator. Some offer improved thermal conductivity to help with thermal management of electronic components and heat sinks, directing heat away from sensitive components. Because in many cases (particularly when using an anaerobic or cyanoacrylate adhesive) there is no glue line control and effectively parts are touching (with adhesives filling in microscopic crevices), some electrical charge can still be transferred as there is enough metal to metal contact still occurring.
Certain temperature-sensitive electronic components cannot be soldered (as the intense heat of liquid solder and the soldering iron can cause damage to the component). This type of application calls for an electrically conductive adhesive that can be used in place of solder. PCBs with components attached to both sides can also benefit from using an electrically conductive adhesive as assembly process is easier without risk of components dropping off the underside when parts are soldered on the top. Using electrically conductive adhesive for an entire electrical assembly negates the requirement to undergo a solder re-flow process.
Applications for electrically conductive adhesives aren’t just limited to bonding components onto PCBs or die attach, they can be very useful for other electronic applications where substrates are temperature sensitive – such as for touch-panels, LCD displays, coating and bonding RFID chips, and mounting LEDs. Solar cells also use adhesives instead of solder as there is less warpage and damage to the sensitive wafers that make up solar cells.
Which material is used for electromagnetic shielding?Typical materials used for electromagnetic shielding include sheet metal, metal screen, and metal foam. Common sheet metals for shielding include copper, brass, nickel, silver, steel, and tin. Shielding effectiveness, that is, how well a shield reflects or absorbs/suppresses electromagnetic radiation, is affected by the physical properties of the metal. These may include conductivity, solderability, permeability, thickness, and weight. A metal's properties are an important consideration in material selection. For example, electrically dominant waves are reflected by highly conductive metals like copper, silver, and brass, while magnetically dominant waves are absorbed/suppressed by a less conductive metal such as steel or stainless steel.Further, any holes in the shield or mesh must be significantly smaller than the wavelength of the radiation that is being kept out, or the enclosure will not effectively approximate an unbroken conducting surface.
Another commonly used shielding method, especially with electronic goods housed in plastic enclosures, is to coat the inside of the enclosure with a metallic ink or similar material. The ink consists of a carrier material loaded with a suitable metal, typically copper or nickel, in the form of very small particulates. It is sprayed on to the enclosure and, once dry, produces a continuous conductive layer of metal, which can be electrically connected to the chassis ground of the equipment, thus providing effective shielding.
Electromagnetic shielding is the process of lowering the electromagnetic field in an area by barricading it with conductive or magnetic material. Copper is used for radio frequency (RF) shielding because it absorbs radio and other electromagnetic waves. Properly designed and constructed RF shielding enclosures satisfy most RF shielding needs, from computer and electrical switching rooms to hospital CAT-scan and MRI facilities.
Energy efficiency is one of the most important factors all businesses are concerned with. The more efficient your air system, the lower your energy consumption and the cheaper your energy bill!
A vast amount of the energy that is lost in a factory or plant is due to wasted energy in an air compressor installation. This can have a huge effect on energy costs, raising your bills and making your cost of ownership high. Various technologies have been developed to ensure that compressed air systems are performing as efficiently as possible, one such technology is variable speed drives (VSD).
Traditional air compressors are fixed speed, meaning they run at a constant and consistent speed. This produces a fixed amount of compressed air per minute. There are many benefits to fixed speed compressor technology if your compressed air demand is constant and unchanging. However, this isn’t always the case. As fixed speed compressors are always operating at full-throttle, if all of the output is not required then energy is being wasted.
Furthermore, fixed speed compressors run unloaded as the stress of an engine start-up would put pressure on the motor. This can be a waste of energy as the machine is running without producing any compressed air. Variable speed compressors avoid this issue by matching the output with the demand created. By simply producing the exact amount of air being used by the downstream equipment, variable speed compressors help to improve plant efficiency.
Watch this video to see how a fixed speed compressor can be sequenced with a variable speed machine to precisely match output with network demand to save energy.
Many air compressor installations will benefit from the efficiency variable speed drive technology provides. Whether you are in the food and beverage industry, automotive, medical industry or even manufacturing, there will be times when your demand for compressed air will vary.
A combination of both variable and fixed speed compressors is thought to be the most cost-effective and advantageous set-up, resulting in the most energy saved and demands met.
Thermocompressor Installation & TroubleshootingA thermocompressor is a steam control device that uses high-pressure steam (motive steam) to induce flow from a lower pressure steam source (suction steam) and discharge the mixture at an intermediate pressure. The high pressure is used to create a high velocity jet that mixes with and accelerates the suction steam. The velocity of the mixture is exchanged for increased pressure in the diffuser. A Kadant Johnson thermocompressor is shown above.
Installation
Thermocompressors can be installed in any orientation, but directing the discharge horizontally or downward is preferred. A thermocompressor should be independently supported. Using the unit to support piping can impose excessive loads and cause bending and misalignment.
Suction and Discharge Piping
Suction piping must be independently supported. It should be full size to match the suction connection on the thermocompressor. Avoid filters, valves and other fittings that cause pressure loss in the suction line that were not considered in the original design specification. Use low-pressure drop non-return valves and full bore ball or gate type isolation valves in all locations to minimize pressure losses. Avoid low points or loops that might accumulate condensate. A steam pressure gauge with an isolation valve should be located as close to the low-pressure inlet as possible.
Discharge piping should be the same diameter as the discharge connection on the thermocompressor. Discharge piping must be independently supported. Care should be taken to avoid placing restrictions or undue obstructions that will increase the discharge pressure above the design point. A minimum length of 10 pipe diameters is recommended before an elbow to Tee. A steam pressure gauge with an isolation valve should be located as close to the discharge connection as possible.
Motive Steam
The line size should be determined based on the maximum design flow for the thermocompressor. Dry steam is a basic requirement for good performance and wet steam is extremely detrimental to both the performance and the parts of a thermocompressor. Motive pipe runs longer than 10 feet and should have a drip leg and trap to remove condensate from the piping before the motive steam enters the thermocompressor. High-flow losses in the supply lines should be avoided. As the motive pressure falls, the amount of steam required increases. A steam pressure gauge with an isolation valve should be located as close to the motive connection as possible.
Troubleshooting
A thermocompressor in the fully open or closed position during run conditions is usually a problem. Accuracy of the instrumentation and controls should be verified.
Substandard performance can usually be traced to either external or internal causes. Substandard performance can also be classified as either sudden or gradual. A gradual deterioration in performance, usually a loss of recompression, invariably suggests either erosion or corrosion, whereas a sudden loss of compression will usually suggest an external cause.
Since the external causes of trouble are usually easier to check, they should be investigated first.
When a fault is investigated, it is prudent to treat as suspect all the gauges fitted, especially Bourdon Tube type dial gauges. These gauges should, whenever it is possible, be recalibrated.
4 Types of Refrigeration SystemsEvaporative Cooling
Evaporative cooling units are also referred to as swamp coolers. They work by blowing warm outdoor air over pads that are soaked in water. The water’s job is to absorb the heat from the air. The water then evaporates and cooler air enters your home while warm air stays out.
An evaporative cooling unit is capable of reducing the temperature in a home by about 15-40 degrees. If you’re in the southwestern U.S. where the climate is dry, evaporative coolers are for you. An evaporative cooling unit is easier to install and doesn’t cost half as much as a central air conditioner.
Mechanical-Compression Refrigeration Systems
Mechanical compression is used in commercial and industrial refrigeration, as well as air conditioning. Most HVAC companies install this type of cooling system.
By mechanically compressing refrigerant into a cold liquid with low pressure and expanding it into hot gas with high pressure, this type of system transfers heat. Refrigerants work when pressure is applied or removed. When they absorb heat, they boil and turn into gas, then turn back into liquid form when they release that heat. The refrigerant in a mechanical-compression system boils at 40 degrees, sucking the heat out of warm indoor air.
Absorption
The process in absorption refrigeration is similar to how heat is transferred in mechanical compression. However, instead of using a mechanical compressor, absorption systems use refrigerants that attract and absorb other substances. In some systems, for example, ammonia acts as the refrigerant and water acts as the absorbent. Instead of relying on electric power, heat can come from water, natural gas, steam or other fuel sources.
Thermoelectric
These systems don’t need water or any type of refrigerant. They rely on a thermocouple and electric current. One end of the thermocouple is hot and the other end is cool when current is directed to it. The cold side of the thermocouple is placed in the area that needs cooled so it can attract heat and remove it from the air. Thermoelectric refrigeration isn’t usually used for large cooling loads, but it’s perfect for hard-to-access small cooling loads. A good example would be electronic systems.
What is the difference between a fixed speed and an inverter air con?Inverter or non-inverter? This is the question we get quite a lot from homeowners and business owners that want to purchase a new air con. As you already know, different factors such as building size, floor plan, price and energy usage need to be considered in the search for the best results. These days, though, you may find that most air conditioners are inverter models.
Before you choose an air conditioner, you may wonder: ‘Should I choose a fixed speed or an inverter air con?’ In order to decide which one is better, you must first understand the difference between the two types.
Let’s look at the mechanism behind both systems, so that you can make the best choice possible.
A fixed speed, also known as non-inverter or standard air conditioner, features a single speed motor operation: on and off. Basically, once it reaches the desired temperature, it turns off, then back on when the temperature rises to a set level. In other words, this standard compressor always runs at full speed or stops completely depending on the temperature requirements.
This model may be a good option if you are on a budget and you want to save on upfront costs. Since there aren’t many components to deal with, repair charges are usually cheaper as well.
On the other hand, due to their ‘on and off’ cycle, fixed speed air cons use a significant amount of energy. That means they are much less efficient compared to modern technologies. They also fail to keep a constant temperature in your home or office, thanks to the system limitations.
So if flexibility, performance and energy efficiency are on top of your priorities list, then you may want to take a look at an inverter air conditioner system.
Inverter technology is typically considered to be a better choice if you’re looking for the optimal domestic or commercial air con performance.
Technically, the inverter air con controls and varies the speed of the compressor motor, similar to a car. The compressor from the outdoor unit doesn’t have to switch on and off continuously. In exchange, it speeds up or down when necessary in order to keep a constant, comfortable temperature at all times.
Plus, due to its efficient operation, there is less stress on the compressor, as well as on the other parts of the system. That means you’ll save money not only on electricity but also on maintenance. What’s more, an inverter air con features higher energy ratings than a non-inverter one, which makes it friendly with the environment, too.
Inverter vs. Non-Inverter Air Conditioner Unit: Pros & ConsSingaporean heat is no joke. Homes and offices in Singapore can get so hot that a cooling system has practically been deemed essential nationwide. As something so vital to the comfort of everyday living, buying the right air conditioner is a must! You’ll need an air conditioner that not only keeps your place cool and comfortable, but suits your specific, individual needs as well.
The two popular options for air conditioners in Singapore are the inverter aircon and the non-inverter aircon. Both can cool down or warm your place up—but they’re quite difficult to tell apart! Thus, it’s best to familiarize yourself with each air conditioner type to be able to choose which one would suit your home or business more.
In a nutshell, inverter aircons are advanced machines that utilize a controlled compressor, while non-inverter air conditioners are less advanced with a default compressor, though generally less expensive and much more common. Though they may seem similar, the inverter aircon and the non-inverter aircon are distinctive from each other in a myriad of ways such as in functionality, how each unit actually works, their built-in features, and more. Read on to find out the differences between each type!
Inverter vs. Non-Inverter Aircon: Category Comparison
This is the main difference between the two systems, as the inverter aircon has a different compressor motor running its system than the non-inverter aircon.
The compressor refers to the part of the aircon unit that compresses the refrigerant gas into a liquid form. Once this occurs, the refrigerant begins to cool, creating the cool air that regulates the temperature in the room.
Inverter aircons operate with a controllable compressor unit. When cooling or heating is required, the compressor works harder to increase or decrease its output. With a non-inverter aircon, however, there’s no way to control the compressor, and so the non-inverter aircon will cool the room either by operating at either its full capacity or not running at all.
Functionality and Efficiency
As an inverter aircon controls the compressor speed and changes the temperature as required, the inverter aircon is a more likely choice for when you need to save electricity, as it limits energy consumption. The way a non-inverter type functions can cause excessive and unnecessary use of energy, and will more often than not inadvertently rack up your electricity bill. Inverter aircons are inherently more energy-efficient and will help you save on your monthly bills. Also, because of this energy-efficient feature, inverter aircons are regarded as an environmentally-friendly system as it uses 30-50% less energy than a non-inverter type.
Performance
The inverter aircon is a more versatile and flexible unit due to the controlled compressor system. It will adjust to the temperature you’ve set for the room and will adjust its processes based on what the thermostat senses. This versatility usually makes inverter aircons winners in terms of performance, as non-inverter aircons operate on a fixed level of cooling power. Generally though, both inverter and non-inverter aircons do a fine job of cooling a room, so your decision should take other factors into consideration.
Costs
This is probably the one aspect where non-inverter aircons will win out against an inverter aircon, as non-inverter aircons are much cheaper. Really, the primary drawback of an inverter aircon is the initial price to pay upon buying one. Installation costs are also significantly higher with an inverter unit.
However, many will argue that the costs involved with an inverter unit should be considered as an investment, as an inverter type is a more versatile and advanced machine compared to a non-inverter. Not to mention, if you’ll be using the AC for long-term, you’ll be saving much more money on electricity bills than if you were to get an inverter-type.
A diesel engine is an internal combustion engine that uses compression ignition to ignite the fuel as it is injected into the engine.
DIESEL ENGINES VS. GASOLINE ENGINES
It is helpful to an understanding of how diesel engines work to compare the differences between a diesel engine and a gasoline engine. The main differences between a gasoline engine and a diesel engine are:
A gasoline engine takes a mixture of gas and air, compresses it, and ignites the mixture with a spark. A diesel engine takes air, compresses it, and then injects fuel into the compressed air. The heat of the compressed air ignites the fuel spontaneously. A diesel engine does not contain a spark plug.
A gasoline engine compresses at a ratio of 8:1 to 12:1, while a diesel engine compresses at a ratio of 14:1 to as high as 25:1. The higher compression ratio of the diesel engine leads to better efficiency.
Gasoline engines generally use either carburetion, in which the air and fuel are mixed long before the air enters the cylinder, or port fuel injection, in which the fuel is injected just prior to the intake stroke (outside the cylinder). In a gasoline engine, therefore, all of the fuel is loaded into the cylinder during the intake stroke and then compressed. The compression of the fuel/air mixture limits the compression ratio of the engine - if it compresses the air too much, the fuel/air mixture spontaneously ignites and causes knocking. Diesel engines use direct fuel injection i.e. diesel fuel is injected directly into the cylinder. A diesel engine compresses only air, so the compression ratio can be much higher. The higher the compression ratio, the more power generated.
Diesel fuel injectors, unlike gasoline injectors, must be able to withstand the temperature and pressure inside the cylinder and still deliver the fuel in a fine mist. To ensure that the mist is evenly distributed throughout the cylinder, some diesel engines are equipped with special induction valves or pre-combustion chambers. Newer diesel engines are equipped with high-pressure common rail fuel systems. See Diesel Fuel System Basics for more information on this type of fuel system.
Diesel engines may be equipped with a glow plug. When a diesel engine is cold, the compression process may not raise the air temperature high enough to ignite the fuel. The glow plug is an electrically heated wire that facilitates fuel ignition when the engine is cold. Glow plugs are typically found on small diesel engines. Gasoline engines do not require glow plugs as they do not rely on spontaneous combustion.
This post will introduce the working principle and components of diesel engine cooling system in detail. It is worth taking a few time to read it.
Diesel engines are heat-generating sources. They are cooled by circulating a water-based coolant through a water jacket, which is part of the engine. The coolant is circulated through pipes to the radiator to remove the heat added to the coolant by the engine and then back to the engine.
The typically components of the cooling system are:
1. Water pumps
2. Heat removing device (radiator or heat exchanger)
3. Coolant expansion tanks (surge tanks)
4. Temperature control valves
5. Temperature and pressure switches and indicators
6. Pipes
Please note that the engine water cooling systems are either closed or open systems. Closed system is designed to use the same coolant with a closed circuit, preventing the losses of the coolant. While the open system uses the coolant once and discharges it or recirculates the coolant through systems, which cool the coolant by evaporation. Most of the stationary diesel engines use closed systems to control the chemistry of the coolant to prevent fouling of heat transfer surfaces and to closely control the temperatures.
In general, diesel generator cooling system has the following functions:
1. Cooling the engine cylinders via water jacket
2. Cooling the lube oil via lube oil cooler
3. Cooling combustion air via after cooler on turbo-charged engines
Although there are various types of pumps used in diesel engine cooling systems, two pumps are often used for two circuits systems. One is Engine driven pump, the other is electrical driven pump (It is used to circulate the coolant to keep the engine warm when the engine is not running.)
A high-powered diesel engine is very hard on the coolant. Additive-depleted coolant will not only allow liner cavitation but cause premature failure of the head gaskets, radiator, water pump, freeze plugs, heater core and thermostat.
Maintenance
Many diesel engines issues are caused by lacking proper maintenance.
First, check the additive level should be a part of maintenance schedule. Since the diesel engines have such a large liquid capacity, cooling system test strips are offered to check the level of additives. If the level is low, a bottle of SCA can be mixed in to renew the coolant without a complete change.
Second, when you are going to buy coolant, make sure it is compatible with a diesel engine, not automotive or light-truck use, which means gasoline powered.
Want to know about which brand of diesel generator is better, email me at: sales@dieselgeneratortech.com
Understanding The Basics Of Diesel Fuel SystemsOil derivatives are the dominant source of fuel for transportation systems. You have probably seen news coverage of “hydrogen” and “electric” powered vehicles, but these sources are still very much in their infancy. Gasoline is the primary fuel source for cars, trucks, and other passenger vehicles, but regular gasoline systems are not the only systems available. Diesel systems are the preferred types for commercial vehicles, cargo ships, and trains.
In theory, gasoline and diesel fuel systems are remarkably similar. They are both internal combustion engines and they both convert chemical reactions into mechanical energy. Both systems use a series of pistons to compress fuel and air before igniting it. The difference between the two systems is how energy is created within them.
In a gasoline engine, gas and air are mixed then compressed and ignited with sparks from the spark plug. In a diesel engine, air is compressed and then the gasoline is introduced. When the air is compressed, it heats up and the compressed air ignites the gas.
The differences between gasoline and diesel fuel systems do not stop at the combustion methods. Both systems also use entirely different fuels. Diesel is heavier and oilier than gasoline, so it evaporates more slowly. Additionally, diesel emits fewer compounds that are associated with global warming, like CO2 and methane. However, diesel fuel does emit more nitrogen compounds, which is associated with acid rain and smog.
Since diesel engines mix in the fuel after the air is compressed, they are able to exercise more control over how much is utilized. In fact, these engines are considered one of the most fuel-efficient transportation systems. This is why vehicles with diesel systems dominate the commercial and freight industries.
The components of diesel fuel systemsA basic diesel fuel system is made up of five essential components. These are the tank, the fuel transfer pump, filters, the injection pump, and the injection nozzles.
The fuel tanks in diesel systems are typically crafted from aluminum alloys or sheet metal. The tanks are designed to contain the diesel fuel and survive its long-term corrosive effects.
The transfer pump sucks the diesel fuel out of the tank to move it into the injection pump. The transfer pump is generally located outside of the fuel tank or on the rear of the injection pump. In a few situations, transfer pumps are also located within the tank.
Diesel, like gasoline, is always mixed with contaminants that can damage the combustion system. The fact that diesel is refined, stored, transported on trucks, then stored again at gasoline stations ensures that contaminants will enter the fuel. To address these concerns, filters are placed between the transfer pump and injection system. The filter removes dirt and other contaminants that could easily damage the fuel injection system.
The injection pump compresses the fuel in preparation for injection. Injection nozzles spray diesel into the combustion chamber of the cylinders. The combustion chamber enables the car to convert the miniature combustions (explosions) into mechanical energy that turns the vehicle’s wheels.
At Kendrick Oil, we distribute a wide variety of wholesale fuels, including diesel and regular gasoline. If your business is in need of wholesale fuel or if you want to learn more about any of our products and services, give us a call at (800) 299-3991. You can also Contact Us by email for details. We have locations in Texas, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Kansas.
Charge Air CoolingIn modern engines, it is also important to ensure the temperature of the charge does not become excessive. In modern boosted engines, this is a real possibility. Excessive temperatures can lead to reduced charge density and higher combustion temperatures which can affect torque, power and emissions.
While turbochargers and superchargers increase charge air density, they also increase the temperature of the air in the intake manifold. This arrangement with intake air compression with no subsequent cooling was suitable for applications such as North American heavy-duty diesel engines until the 1990s. As emission standards became increasingly stringent, additional increases in charge air density were needed. While this could be achieved through compression to higher pressures, this would require more expensive compression equipment and would further increase cycle temperatures. On the other hand, if intake manifold temperature could be reduced, the intake density could be further increased and more air could be supplied to the engine without necessarily increasing the intake manifold pressure. While this would require a compressor capable of higher flow, the cost would be considerably less than a compressor that was also capable of higher pressures. Cooling the air with a heat exchanger as it leaves the compressor is a common way to achieve this charge air cooling. Such a heat exchanger is referred to as a charge air cooler (CAC), intercooler or aftercooler (Figure 1). These terms are commonly used interchangeably. The term intercooler refers to the fact that this heat exchanger performs its task in between two stages of compression, i.e., between compression in the compressor and compression in the cylinder of the engine. The term aftercooler refers to the charge air being cooled after being compressed in the compressor. Increasing demand for improvements in fuel economy and exhaust emissions has made the charge air cooler an important component of most modern turbocharged engines.
Piston rings seal the combustion chamber. They are set with precision so as to apply the correct pressure on the cylinder wall or liner, which ensures there is a consistent film of oil across the cylinder's working surfaces. This provides sufficient lubrication and protects against wear.
Piston rings from Perkins come as three rings. They are the top compression ring, then the intermediate compression ring and finally the oil control ring. These parts are relatively small in size but play a large role in the main cylinder block of your engine.
Their function is to seal off gases generated in the internal combustion process, help with transferring heat to the cylinder wall and then to both lubricate and scrape down oil from it. Getting the quantities of oil right is vital. Too much oil will cause it to burn off during combustion potentially making your engine produce blue smoke, too little will cause the engine ultimately to seize.
The primary role of the top compression ring is to seal off the majority of the combustion gases to ensure you get the maximum power output from your engine. Any failure or weakening of the piston ring in this area means your engine is working less efficiently than it should.
The bottom ring is responsible for most of the oil control, helping to make sure the right amount of oil is used to lubricate the working surfaces of the cylinder, while the intermediate ring helps with both functions, playing a finishing role in the combustion sealing as well as the downward oil scraping.
The result of these three rings working in harmony is sufficient lubrication within the cylinder bore, ensuring that no undue wear occurs at any time.
How Long Do Piston Rings Last?Piston rings are a vital engine component since they seal the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls. High quality and long lasting piston rings are a must for all types of engines.
So, how long do piston rings usually last? Piston rings are typically built to last as long as the engine. As a result, piston rings usually last somewhere between 50,000 miles to 250,000 miles depending on their maintenance.
On an average, the life expectancy of piston rings is around 100,000 miles. One has to replace piston rings if they are damaged or worn out.
Life Expectancy Of Piston Rings
Piston rings are typically built to last as long as the engine. Since motorcycle engines last somewhere between 50,000 miles to 250,000 miles, piston rings should last around the same lifetime as well. On an average, piston rings should last around 100,000 miles.
Again, this is a highly subjective number depending on how good your maintenance is, the piston rings quality, and several external factors including engine oil levels, riding conditions (dusty regions are bad), etc.
If the piston rings are worn out or get damaged at a faster rate, then you might have to replace the piston rings far far earlier than their expected lifetime.
When Should You Replace Piston Ring
Firstly, if your engine has run more than 100,000 miles, then probably it is time for replacing the piston rings. But, do not go to all the lengths of removing the engine cylinder and taking the piston just to replace the piston rings if you are not facing any issues with the engine.
Rather, let things continue as long as there are no problems occuring.
However, as soon as you face a problem and have to repair an engine component, it is best practice to inspect piston rings and replace them if the engine has run more than 100,000 miles.
This is because if you are reworking on an engine component, its best to inspect all parts since you don’t want to go back to it again after sometime. Any work on the engine components like piston, piston rings, crankcase components, cylinder – are all cumbersome, time consuming and most of all, a costly affair.
Other times when you need to replace piston rings are when these rings are damaged or worn out.
Bad piston rings will cause more damage to both the cylinder walls as well as the engine itself. It’s better to replace the bad piston rings early rather than wait for it to damage other components.
Also, you cannot repair piston rings. Any sign of damage, just replace it. There is no easy way out here.
Replacement Cost Of Piston RingsWhile piston rings cost around $50 to $200, replacement cost of piston rings is more than $2000.
This is because replacing piston rings is a laborious task. Although piston rings themselves doesn’t cost much themselves, the labor charges will be too high since piston rings replacement means taking out the engine cylinder head, removing piston from the engine, and then replacing the rings.
Typically, all this process will take around 10 hours altogether. As a result, the labor cost is far too high and costs so much for a simple piston rings replacement.
How Do I Know If My Piston Rings Are Bad
If the piston rings are damaged or worn out, there is no direct method to determine it. However, there are several symptoms which combined together will indicate that the piston rings have gone bad and should be replaced immediately.
First and foremost sign of bad piston rings is if you are seeing white or gray smoke coming out of the exhaust. White smoke is a clear indication that the engine oil is getting burnt in the combustion chamber. And the oil can only enter the combustion chamber if the piston rings are not sealing the piston and cylinder correctly.
In the same vein, if the engine is being consumed excessively and you are constantly seeing low engine oil levels despite several top ups, it is mostly likely because the piston rings are bad and are allowing the oil to moves into the combustion chamber to get burnt.
Apart from the indications from oil, you can also suspect bad piston rings from the engine. If the engine power and acceleration is consistently low, then the culprit is either the inlet and exhaust ports or the piston rings.
To pin point the culprit, you can test the engine compression. If the engine compression is considerably lower, then it is without a doubt certain that the piston rings are damaged and are not working properly. Here is a detailed post on on
To pin point the culprit, you can test the engine compression. If the engine compression is considerably lower, then it is without a doubt certain that the piston rings are damaged and are not working properly. Here is a detailed post on on signs of bad piston rings for more details.
One last sign of bad piston rings is piston slapping. If you hear piston slapping noise across the inner cylinder walls, then the piston rings are worn out and the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls have widened out.
Reasons for Cylinder Liner Wear and Ways to Measure itAll types of ship machines and parts get worn out due to continuous usage and working. Proper maintenance and routine checks are necessary to ensure that the machines work for a longer time. In this article, we will have a look at various reasons that lead to cylinder liner wear and how it can be minimised.
Reasons for Cylinder Liner Wear
The wear in the cylinder liner is mainly because of following reasons:-
1) Due to friction.
2) Due to corrosion.
3) Abrasion
4) Scuffing or Adhesion
Frictional Wear:
Whenever two surfaces slide over each other, friction is produced which leads to wearing down of both the surfaces. In liner wear, the surfaces are piston rings sliding over the cylinder liner. The frictional wear depends upon various factors like speed of movement between the surfaces, material involved, temperature, the load on engine, pressure, maintenance, lubrication, and combustion efficiency.
Corrosion:
The cylinder liner wear due to corrosion is caused due to these reasons:
– Burning of heavy fuel oil in the combustion space:
This happens because heavy fuel oil contains high sulfur content. During combustion, acids are formed inside the space which should be neutralised by cylinder oil which is alkaline in nature. The production of acids will be more if sulfur content is more, leading to the formation of sulphuric acid. Sulphuric acid is formed due to absorption of the condensate or moisture present inside the combustion space.
– Lower combustion chamber temperature because of reduced service load:
As the low load operation of the marine engine is gaining popularity, it also leads to low temperature in the combustion chamber. If the cylinder oil quantity is not matched properly with the load, it may lead to corrosion of liner.
Sulphuric acid corrosion is found more in the lower part of the liner as the temperature of jacket water is very low. Corrosion due to sulfur will be high due to the presence of water in fuel and condensate in the air. This wear is generally seen between the quills. The wear near the quills enlarges and gives a characteristic of the clover leaf shape to the wear pattern. This phenomenon is called clover leafing.
How the piston worksWhen the engine is running, the piston moves up and down in the cylinder. When the piston reaches the turning point, it slows down and then accelerates again suddenly. This produces inertia forces that act on the piston. When considered together with the forces generated by the gas pressure, this forms the piston force, which is transferred to the connecting rod and crankshaft. Connecting rods are only perfectly vertical at the upper and lower turning points. The angle of the connecting rod presses the piston against the side of the cylinder wall. The amount and direction of this force constantly change during the combustion cycle, as they depend on the piston force and the angle between the piston crown and connecting rod axis. Pistons are equipped with piston rings. They seal the combustion and working chamber in relation to the crankcase. They also remove the oil from the cylinder walls, thus controlling the oil consumption. Piston rings also discharge the heat absorbed by the piston during combustion to the cooled running surface of the cylinder liner.
Many of our kits include reagent bottles for steeping and storing bitters. This type of bottle has been used to store chemicals for at least 150 years, though the idea for the ground glass stopper dates back to the late 1700s. The combination of glass bottle and stopper makes the container very resistant to chemical corrosion with a few exceptions. Very strong alkali should not be stored in these bottles because the alkali can cause the stopper to corrode and fuse to the neck of the bottle. Also, hydrofluoric acid should never be stored in glass containers because it will actually dissolve the glass.
Reagent bottles that have been used in a laboratory or otherwise used to store chemicals should not be used for storing food or drinks. The bottles in our kits are always brand new but they may contain a white residue from the process of grinding the neck and stopper so they should always be washed before use.
Bottles typically come in two colors: clear and amber. Clear bottles are ideal for displaying items and amber bottles protect the contents from light. Sizes range from 30 ml (1 ounce) up to 20000 ml (about 5 gallons) and the larger ones may be used to store preserved biological specimens in the lab. The large ones also make excellent terrariums or miniature aquariums.
Because glass expands and contracts with changes in temperature, care must be taken when reagent bottles are heated and cooled. When a reagent bottle is heated, the neck expands, allowing the tapered stopper to drop farther into the bottle. When the bottle is then cooled, the neck shrinks around the stopper, locking it in place. The rough surface of the neck and stopper prevents the stopper from sliding up as the neck shrinks. With a large enough change in temperature, the neck of the bottle can actually crack if it shrinks too tight around the stopper. Additionally, if hot liquid is poured into the bottle, the liquid will form an air-tight seal between the stopper and bottle, and as the liquid and steam in the bottle cool and shrink, the stopper will be pulled down into the bottle neck. This is the same principle that makes the center of a canning jar lid pop down until the seal is released.
Things You Should Know Before Using BottlesWhen pouring hot liquids into a reagent bottle or placing the bottle in the refrigerator, the lid should be propped open with a toothpick or other small object until the liquid and bottle are cool. Another way to seal the bottle while preventing the lid from sticking is to place a sheet of plastic wrap loosely over the bottle neck before pushing the stopper down.
If the lid of your bottle does get stuck, there are ways to rescue it without breaking it. (You may want to wear leather gloves while trying to remove a stuck stopper in case the bottle or stopper breaks.) Stuck stoppers often cause small chips around the mouth of the bottle. Use a small piece of fine grit wet sandpaper to smooth the edges of the chips.
Grasp the bottle in both hands with your fingers around the bottle and your thumbs against the edge of the stopper. Push against the edge of the stopper. Rotate the bottle and try again until you feel a small pop. It may take several rotations and "pops" before the lid is loose enough to remove.
If the first step didn't work, try running the bottle under warm water while keeping the lid dry. The greater the temperature difference between the bottle and stopper, the more likely the stopper will come loose. Once the bottle is warm, dry it and repeat the steps above.
If that still doesn't work, place a slightly crumpled piece of foil on a rack in the middle of an oven. The foil should be about 1.5 times the height of the bottle or larger. Lay the bottle on its side on the foil with enough extra foil under the top of the bottle to keep the lid from hitting the oven rack if it falls out. Heat the bottle gently by starting at 250°. Increase the temperature by 10-20° every 15 minutes until the stopper loosens. You can pull the bottle out and try step one wearing heat-resistant gloves but the lid should eventually get loose enough to fall out on its own.
If all of that fails, let the bottle slowly cool to room temperature. Wearing a heat-resistant glove and safety glasses, hold the bottle upside down over a folded towel, and use a torch to heat the neck of the bottle. The lid should eventually fall out onto the towel. This rapid heating can cause the bottle to crack so use caution.
If none of those things work and you absolutely must get the contents out of the bottle, use a chisel and hammer to gently chip away the neck of the bottle around the stopper. If the contents you are rescuing are your bitters, filter them thoroughly to remove any glass slivers.
Reagent bottles are labeled using a system which includes a "hybrid" hazard labeling system.
When reagents arrive from the manufacturer, the labels are intended to communicate the hazards and precautions of handling a particular chemical to the researchers and professionals who will be using the chemical. Much of this information is also included in compliance with HCS legislation, to protect the manufacturer from liability for any accidents which occur during handling of the chemical.
Unfortunately for students in undergraduate-level teaching labs, this information carries little meaning, or is simply not interpreted correctly because the average undergrad hasn't had the training and education to fully understand the information presented. Therefore the CS uses a simpler labeling system for the reagent bottles used by the students in the teaching labs. This system is a "hybrid" because it presents important information in a simpler and clearer format which is easy to understand, and also incorporates elements of both the NFPA and HMIS hazard labeling systems.
The label consists of several parts:
Chemical name: Lists the name of the chemical. Many chemicals have several synonyms due to various systems of nomenclature. This can get a little confusing, so the most commonly-used name (according to the texts used for the teaching labs, but more often the name recommended by the IUPAC nomenclature system) will appear here.
Chemical synonyms: Lists other names of the chemical, if there are any. For instance, "rock salt" would be listed as a synonym of the chemical "sodium chloride."
Hazard rating: The hazard rating of the chemical. These ratings are usually published by the NFPA as Standards (NFPA 49 and 325, for example). If a chemical has no published NFPA rating, then HMIS/HMIG ratings are used instead, based on manufacturer information. A blank hazard rating on a chemical does not mean the chemical is harmless! On the contrary; it means that the chemical has not been rated by the NFPA or is not contained in any other published source of hazard ratings. Chemicals with blank hazard ratings should be treated as dangerous. Reagents which are not pure chemicals (for instance, aqueous salt solutions) will not include a hazard rating diamond on their labels.
Specific hazards: Based on the hazard rating, words appearing here draw your attention to specific hazards of the chemical or reagent. CORROSIVE! or POISON! will appear if the health (blue) rating is 3 or greater. FLAMMABLE! will appear if the flammability (red) rating is 3 or greater. EXPLOSIVE! or EXTREMELY REACTIVE! will appear if the reactivity (yellow) rating is 3 or greater, and WATER-REACTIVE! will appear if the chemical or reagent is water-reactive. In cases where the hazard rating is unknown, specific hazards may still be known and will be identified.
Laboratory bottles and jars
Laboratory bottles and jars hold and store chemicals in a variety of different types of laboratories. They come in a wide range of shapes and sizes for various applications, and can be made of glass or plastic.
Types of Bottles and Jars
The chart below lists the different types and shapes of bottles and jars as well as a description and their application.
Bottle Type/ShapeDescriptionNarrow MouthNarrow-mouth bottles feature a smaller opening that is designed for pouring liquids and can be used for storing or shipping liquids.Wide MouthWide-mouth bottles feature a larger opening for easy filling of various types of liquids and solids.SamplingSampling bottles and jars have straight sides and wide mouths for easy filling and removal of samples. Environmental sampling jars can resist breakage, making them good for collecting, transporting and storing of samples for later analysis.SquareSquare bottles can be easily packed next to each other and allow for more bottles to be stored on shelves or cabinets.WashWash bottles shoot a jet of water out of a spout on the side of the bottle. Use them to rinse chemicals and materials from other labware. Some wash bottles have a chemical name and formula printed on them to help prevent cross contamination with other chemicals.Clear vs. Amber Bottles and Jars
While clear plastic and glass bottles and jars provide maximum transparency of their contents, amber bottles and jars protect light-sensitive products from UV rays that could alter their contents. Amber bottles and jars come in a variety of sizes and materials.
Glass Bottles and Jars
Below are the two most common types of glass used for bottles and jars, their application and temperature range. Type I Borosilicate glass contains at least 5% boric oxide making it more temperature and chemical resistant than Type III Soda Lime Glass.
Both types of glass bottles and jars can be safety coated with a specialized plastic called plastisol that fits tightly to the glass bottle when cooled to provide protection from injuries and leaks should the bottle or jar break.
MaterialApplicationTemperature RangeType I BorosilicateWithstands harsher chemical and thermal conditions than bottles made of soda lime. Bottles and jars made from this glass can go from freezing to hot temperatures or vice versa without breaking.–70°C to 230°CType III Soda LimeOffers some chemical resistance and a smooth surface for easy cleaning. Use for dry powers, buffers or low-heat applications.0°C to 100°CWhat are the Properties of Amber Glass Bottles for Cosmetics?When you're trying to decide on the right kind of packaging and bottles for your product, it's important to know exactly what you’re getting, and what to expect. With so many options and varieties to choose from, knowing the type of cosmetic bottle that will fit your needs (and the needs of your customers) is crucial.
Amber bottles have seen an increase in popularity in recent years a more minimalistic/ natural approach is trending cosmetics, with consumers looking to decrease their carbon footprint and develop a more sustainable lifestyle.
So, what can you expect from amber bottles? Let’s answer a few common questions so you can make a more informed decision on whether you should use them for your product(s).
